The art of geisha hunting
By Kristie Lau | theage.com.au | 25 April
Tread with extreme caution. They're often frightened off by large groups so make sure you don't come at them too quickly," our tour guide, Yuka, warns us. Night has fallen and a full moon illuminates the district ahead - the perfect time to spot one, apparently.
"They're surprisingly agile so if they don't want to be photographed, they won't be. And you'd be in for quite a chase anyway because this is their home and they know it inside-out," Yuka says.
A cab full of drunken Japanese businessmen rolls into the laneway. As our 12-person tour group attempts to get out of the way, a woman's slender hand pushes one of the restaurant doors open just a touch. "I see one, I see one!" one of my fellow travellers squeals, swiftly snatching a camera from her jacket pocket. Yuka hits her over the head with her backpack and the businessmen hastily stumble through the doors, yanking the woman's hand inside with them. "You've just frightened a geisha off," Yuka informs us.
Within minutes of your arrival, the art of geisha-hunting begins to take its toll on your conscience - you begin to feel like a paparazzo. The elusive shuffling geisha is often nominated as one of the most desirable snapshot subjects in Japan and in a traveller's fierce scramble to digitally capture one in her natural environment, one often forgets that geishas are actually hard at work. Contrary to popular belief, these women are not prostitutes. Geishas are employed for "entertainment purposes" and are generally asked to host parties that double as business meetings, organised by wealthy and prominent Japanese men.
"You could pay hundreds of Australian dollars for just one hour of their time," Yuka says. "And they often have numerous appointments per evening."
"Appointments?" queries one of the more sceptical tour members.
"Yes, appointments!" Yuka replies indignantly. "They're not hookers."
Just then, a tour member, Janine, intervenes: "Everyone shut up, holy crap, there's more over there."
Three young geishas trail down the laneway, heads down and arms linked. I gawk in amazement - how do these girls move so quickly in thongs and socks? They slide down the street like a tram on rails, their feet acting like magnets to the cobblestones. Amazing.
There is no stopping Janine. As she closes in, we yell: "Don't use the flash, Nini, just don't use the flash."
But it is a wasted effort. Janine lunges at the geishas. Her digital SLR and backpack fly around like a flock of seagulls tearing into a final hot chip. Lightbulbs blaze and Janine finally gets her shot. The geishas disappear instantly.
Yuka groans. "Tourists just don't listen, do they?"
But I can't hear her. Janine and I have just spotted another one.
Source: The Sun-Herald
First published by TheAge.com.au on April 25 2008
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