Skiing is believing
By Rachael Oakes-Ash | theage.com.au | 04 July
If it can be done on snow, it can be done in Canada. This is the home of big mountain skiing and boarding, of resort skiing and host of the back-country. With almost 50 resorts in the mountainous states of British Columbia and Alberta alone, you could ski an entire season and still not experience all that's on offer. Most of us have only two weeks of ski holiday time in which to play, so it's best to listen to the locals when searching for powder and get up early to get the first tracks.
Best powder: Fernie
Fernie has long claimed to be the resort for powder in Canada. It still holds true if the past season is anything to go by when Fernie was blessed with more than 11 metres of snowfall.
There's a rule in Fernie - it's called the 30-centimetre rule. When the sky dumps that much new snow, you won't find a local in town, they'll close up shop and head to the mountain.
With five bowls set in the stunning limestone cliffs of Lizard Range it's possible to get fresh tracks until lunch time. Locals head to Cedar Bowl - it's usually the first to open. Keep an eye on Face Lift T bar, a short hike from the top, to get some of Fernie's best powder runs in Lizard Bowl, then drop off any of the ridges into steep tree runs for some serious fun.
See http://www.skifernie.com.
Best kept secret: Castle Mountain
Castle Mountain is the locals' secret. Three hours from Calgary and an hour from Fernie, Castle is accessed by a 48-kilometre drive through a mix of tarred and untarred roads from the Amish-like Hutterite community of Pincher Creek.
Owned by 200 shareholders from ski patrollers to the mountain pub owner, Castle Mountain is known for its steep terrain and its claim to have the longest continuous fall line in Canada. The wind is your friend at Castle where the upper half of the mountain is exposed to the elements, serving up wind-dumped powder stashes and snow-filled gullies.
On a snow day it's possible to ski from top to bottom and return to find your tracks already covered. This is a laid-back mountain where lift queues don't exist and lifties greet you with a high-five or a hug before you get on the chair. Beginners have their own mountain area, the rest of us have Mount Haig as our playground, with Lonestar and Desperado Chutes for the adrenaline junkies.
Castle has only one restaurant which is in the one pub up the road from the one hostel style lodge with both ensuite hotel rooms and bunk style communal accommodation. Locals are friendly, which is just as well - holler out here and no one will hear you.
See http://www.skicastle.ca
Worst kept secret: Whistler Blackcomb
Whistler Blackcomb has a big reputation. More than 3300 skiable hectares of a reputation. Then there's the 1.6-kilometre vertical, 200-plus trails and 38 lifts, and this is before the peak-to-peak gondola opens in 2009.
Home to the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler Blackcomb is a purpose-built resort designed for the masses. The snow is different here to interior BC. Closer to the ocean and lower in elevation, it can get a little sketchy down the bottom but the upper half of both mountains are a snow lover's dream. On a powder day, it costs $16.78 for a Fresh Tracks ticket and access to the lifts for a full hour before the crowds arrive - breakfast is included.
Whistler Blackcomb leans towards the advanced end of intermediate once you move from beginners. Whistler mountain has six open bowls and Whistler and Blackcomb have glacier skiing. Beware Blackcomb's Pakalolo Chute - enter at your own risk.
See http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com.
Best advanced terrain: Kicking Horse
For those looking for a mix of powder, steeps, tree runs and extreme, go straight to Kicking Horse for some seriously steep terrain of 45-degree pitches and a 1250-metre vertical. There is a lot of accessible back-country if you are happy to carry skis on your back and a couple of avalanche transceivers (beacons).
At Kicking Horse it's all about Redemption and Terminator Ridge and 75 odd chutes rated from advanced to expert. From the Secret Chute (so secret you won't find it alone so ask a guide to accompany you), to Feuz Bowl and Whitewall, your thighs will be burning, guaranteed.
See http://www.kickinghorseresort.com.
Best for the family: Big White or Silver Star
The sister resorts of Big White and Silver Star are owned by the Schumann family, who once owned Victoria's Mount Hotham, so expect Australian-style hospitality.
Both mountains have a healthy amount of intermediate terrain that appeals to families and lots of ski-in ski-out accommodation options, as well as a progressive ski school catering for all ages and styles of skier and boarder.
Big White's kids centre's on-site kitchen bakes hearty kids' food. Add a terrain park and a Mega Snow Coaster tube park. Silver Star's ski guarantee ensures your first time skiing or boarding is a successful one or you learn for free.
See http://www.bigwhite.com or http://www.skisilverstar.com.
One to watch: Revelstoke
Everyone's talking about Revelstoke. Phase one of a billion-dollar ski resort development in the sleepy town of Revelstoke opened this season. A gondola and a chairlift will be joined by two more lifts by next year, which will open up a 1.8-kilometre vertical drop, the longest in North America.
This is seriously good terrain for the advanced skier only. As the resort develops in the next few years, intermediate and beginner terrain will be established with a goal of 40,400 skiable hectares by 2015, surpassing Whistler in size and vertical.
Add 202,300 hectares of heli-ski terrain and some cat skiing and Revelstoke Mountain Resort has all bases covered.
See http://www.revelstokemountainresort.com.
Trip notes
* Getting there Air Canada flies direct from Sydney to Vancouver. See http://www.aircanada.com. Air New Zealand flies to Vancouver via Auckland. See http://www.airnewzealand.com.au.
* More information December to March are the best months to ski in Canada, though be aware - January gets very cold. Spring skiing from mid-March to mid-April means longer days. Whistler Blackcomb has glacier skiing until June.
Powder programs
If you're going to ski off-piste in Canada, you'd better know how to turn those fat skis and snowboards. Extremely Canadian runs two-day group clinics and specialised one-on-one instruction on Whistler Blackcomb's glaciers. See http://www.extremelycanadian.com. At Fernie, Kathy Murray runs Steep 'n Deep camps making the most of the famous powder bowls in small groups or the two-day White Room program. See http://www.skifernie.com. Canadian Mountain Holidays Heli Skiing and Boarding offers its seven-day Powder Introductory Program for first timers to deep powder. The group gets a heli guide and a powder instructor and video analysis. Phone Travelplan on 1300 754 754 or see http://www.travelplan.com.au.
* Cat Skiing
Let the caterpillar-style vehicle do all the hard work for you. Cat skiing is half the price of heli skiing and, like heli, takes skiers to untracked terrain. Board the cabin on the back of the snow groomer with nine other skiers and boarders and be transported to the top of the hill. Ski down to where the cat waits for you. It's loads of fun and the 15- to 20-minute drive back up gives your burning thighs a breather. You don't reach the same terrain as heli skiing but the mobile isn't limited by weather. Plus, it's half the price of a day's heli skiing with double the runs, rain, hail or shine. Powder Mountain Cat Skiing is half an hour from Whistler and has hotel pick-up and return for a full day ski or board with lunch included. See http://www.powdermountaincatskiing.com. Island Lake Cat Skiing has two-, three- and four-day options from $CA1550 ($1636) a person including meals and lodging. See http://www.islandlakeresorts.com. Selkirk Cat Skiing conducts six-night, five-day cat-skiing tours. Stay in the private mountain lodge and ski up a storm from $CA3320, including accommodation and all meals. See http://www.selkirkwilderness.com.
* Heli Skiing
Whistler Heli-Ski has access to terrain 60 times the size of Whistler Blackcomb resort. Take a three-, four- or six-run day from $CA750 per person or charter the chopper privately for $CA6995 for four passengers. See http://www.whistlerheliskiing.com. Take to the skies for a week-long night experience with 40 others from around the world, skiing in the Monashees range with Canadian Mountain Holidays. Costs start at $CA5900 a person staying at the Gothics lodge in low season for seven nights. There are three-, four- and five-night options available. Canadian Mountain Holidays sells a private week with 10 friends, staying in 12 remote lodges in Canadian powder country, all for $CA152,090. Phone 1300 754 754; see www.travelplan.com.au.
Source: The Sun-Herald
First published by TheAge.com.au on July 04 2008
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